1770's Polonaise
Dress Diary
April 23,2004
I won't be getting a serious start on this project until sometime next week. If I have time this weekend, I'll be rummaging through my fabric bins to find something that will work for this dress. I know exactly where I have the linen for the chemise stored, so I'll probably get that out and wash it.
I won't be getting a serious start on this project until sometime next week. If I have time this weekend, I'll be rummaging through my fabric bins to find something that will work for this dress. I know exactly where I have the linen for the chemise stored, so I'll probably get that out and wash it.
April 26, 2004
Well, I've actually made a fabric decision (although, you never know when
I'll change my mind again). You could kind of say that this stuff was
sitting right under my nose. It is one of the fabrics that has already
been organized, but I just kept passing over it while I was looking at my
swatch cards. I had actually opened the bin to pull out the linen when
I saw this fabric right on top. I'm the first to admit that it is not
period correct (pattern is too large and the design is printed instead of
woven) but I wasn't going to achieve that anyway. I actually purchased
this fabric several years ago with a Victorian polonaise in mind (ah, the
irony). Now, it will make a lovely impression
of a 1770's polonaise.
Last night I found the pattern for the chemise. (Yes, it was lost like everything else at home right now.) I was a little worried though, when I started considering how long it took me to make the last chemise from this pattern (minus the several months it spent rolled up into a ball at the bottom of the sewing pile). Then I had an epiphany: if I'm going to machine sew this anyway, why not use the serger? Duh! It will cut my labor time by a third. So, now that I'm not completely freaking out about this project anymore, I guess I should get back to work.
May 11, 2004
I finished my chemise last night. All that really needed to be done was the hemming and finishing the lower sleeves. I made the sleeves considerably smaller than the pattern suggests, fitting them exactly into the armscye, but that still leaves quite a bit of fullness, which I ended up gathering into an armband. I'm hoping that the armband will help keep the chemise sleeve from being pushed up into my armpit while putting on the gown.
I've also made quite a bit of progress on the corset. (I'd have a picture to show you, except that I got side-tracked while looking for the camera.) I finished all of the boning channels, but when I sat down to cut the boning, I ran out half-way through the corset. (Gives new meaning to the phrase "half-boned" stays.) After completely panicking for a few minutes, I calmed down a bit and Mom offered to go to Lacis today to see if they have the coiled spring steel there. If not, I don't think I'll have time to order more from Farthingales, so I'll have to get both corsets mostly finished then bring them with me to Lacis and purchase the precut boning in the correct lengths. (What a pain! I much prefer cutting the boning myself.) BTW, the corset really is looking fantastic. As soon as I find the camera (without getting distracted), I'll post a picture.
Hint on the corset: The pattern recommends using a contrasting color thread for stitching the boning channels. This is REALLY good advice. Not only does it save your eyes, but it looks pretty cute, too.
June 2, 2004
Both corsets are finished, but I can't really give a review of the pattern
since I didn't really follow it. The directions were more like guidelines
on this project. The sizing worked well, and all the pattern pieces
went together without a hitch. The problem that many people seem to
have with this pattern are the instructions for attaching the cover and lining.
Now, I really did at least read through the directions, and I can see why
people are complaining. It seems extremely complex with lots of room for error. Rather than
tempt fate, I chose to put the corsets together my own way...
I started with the two interlining layers (after doing muslins to check fit!). I sewed each layer separately then attached them at the seams and added boning channels. (Warning: many people complain that this method produces puckers where the two layers do not match up exactly. While I do encounter this problem, I have not learned the alternative method so as to be in a position to compare, and the puckers have never been severe enough to cause any problems in the comfort or appearance of the final garment.) I then assembled the cover layer and attached it at the center back seams, right sides together and then flipped. (For my own corset, I also added an additional lining layer. This was attached at the same time as the cover fabric; the right sides of the lining and cover layers face each other, with the interlining layers facing the wrong side of either one.) I placed all the boning, carefully basted the top and bottom edges, and then attached seam binding. I was able to sew the seam binding to the top edge using the matching, but the entire bottom edge needed to be sewn by hand. (This is where it would really pay to get the Mantua Maker directions to work, as it would eliminate this step.) (I owe Mom a huge hug for doing all that hand sewing.) Oh, yeah, I also did not use the shoulder strap. I've had some problems with them in the past and figured I may as well save myself the time and fuss and eliminate them altogether.
The finished corsets are absolutely wonderful. The boys are all a bit perplexed that we are now making dresses to cover them up, and all I can say is that it's just a girl thing.
I've also finished my bumroll. I scaled up a pattern from Period Costumes for Stage and Screen. It was, of course, very simple, but a little oddly shaped once it was finished. The back just seems a bit too long before it curves. Maybe it's just me. Anyway, once it is on, you don't notice that at all.
The under petticoat is just about finished--just needs to be hemmed.
The over petticoat is just about half-way finished. I still haven't
decided how I will hem that one. It is going to show, so my inclination
is to hem by hand, but the flounce is about ten yards, and I really don't
have the kind of time at this point. So, I guess it gets a machine stitched
hem...at least for now.
June 8, 2004
Well, the costume is pretty much finished, so I've got a lot of catching up to do.
The polonaise itself was actually my first attempt at scaling up a pattern
(aside from the bumroll--an experience that was falsely reassuring).
I got the pattern from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1, the 1770-1780 polonaise
from The Gallery of English Costume (seen on page 37). I was first attracted
by those beautiful pleats in back, and decided that they were worth the challenge.
Since I'm not much of one for drawing, and I have ready access to both copiers that can make transparencies and overhead projectors, I decided to use that method. I ended up encountering two separate problems: the first was my old difficulties with measurements--if it is important, I will miscalculate;
the
second problem was with scale. Obviously, the original gown could not
be anywhere near my size, so by the time I had scaled the pattern up enough
to fit me around, it was way too
long. But that's okay--I learned a valuable lesson, and the next time
I try something like this, I will enlarge to fit height first, to get the
vertical scale right, and then enlarge that pattern by expanding where needed.
The result to the polonaise was that I had to go through several muslins before
it even approached being wearable, and even now I'm not entirely pleased with
the length of the center front. (You can see in the center picture at
the top of the page that when I sit, the edge of the bodice wants to flip
up=too long.)
My scale problem also resulted in some issues with the sleeve, but again,
human error also played its role. I knew just by looking at it that
the pattern was too big, so I shortened it significantly. Don't worry,
that was a good thing. The bad thing was that I didn't bother to make
a muslin first. Doh! What was I thinking? The finished sleeve
fits perfectly around my arm, but falls just short of my
elbow and slowly rides up while I'm wearing the garment. Fortunately,
I have enough leftover fabric to go back and recut the sleeves. (Since
I will need to remove the lining in order to do this, it also gives me an
excuse to go back and fix the length issue in front. I may also try
to fix some of the issues with the fit, if possible--you may be able to see
in my event photos that there is a little bit of creasing and such going on,
and the bodice does not seem to fit closely enough in places.)
The great tragedy, however, is that while at the event, I tore a hole in the right panel of the skirt. I was going up an outdoor staircase that had a beautiful wrought iron design on the railing. As I ascended, the wind caught my skirt, catching it on a metal grape leaf while I continued on. Fortunately, the tear is small and I think I can manage to repair it so that it is hardly visible at all. I like to think that it will add a bit of character to my polonaise--a bit of authentic distress. (Yeah, I just keep telling myself that. I really have managed not to be too disappointed and think positively about it. I guess it helps that I was a little dissatisfied with the costume to begin with.)
The one thing that I am extremely pleased with is the drape of the polonaise skirt. It is such a fun look, and my fabric has enough body to really pull it off well.
Well, I've actually made a fabric decision (although, you never know when
I'll change my mind again). You could kind of say that this stuff was
sitting right under my nose. It is one of the fabrics that has already
been organized, but I just kept passing over it while I was looking at my
swatch cards. I had actually opened the bin to pull out the linen when
I saw this fabric right on top. I'm the first to admit that it is not
period correct (pattern is too large and the design is printed instead of
woven) but I wasn't going to achieve that anyway. I actually purchased
this fabric several years ago with a Victorian polonaise in mind (ah, the
irony). Now, it will make a lovely impression
of a 1770's polonaise.Last night I found the pattern for the chemise. (Yes, it was lost like everything else at home right now.) I was a little worried though, when I started considering how long it took me to make the last chemise from this pattern (minus the several months it spent rolled up into a ball at the bottom of the sewing pile). Then I had an epiphany: if I'm going to machine sew this anyway, why not use the serger? Duh! It will cut my labor time by a third. So, now that I'm not completely freaking out about this project anymore, I guess I should get back to work.
May 11, 2004
I finished my chemise last night. All that really needed to be done was the hemming and finishing the lower sleeves. I made the sleeves considerably smaller than the pattern suggests, fitting them exactly into the armscye, but that still leaves quite a bit of fullness, which I ended up gathering into an armband. I'm hoping that the armband will help keep the chemise sleeve from being pushed up into my armpit while putting on the gown.
I've also made quite a bit of progress on the corset. (I'd have a picture to show you, except that I got side-tracked while looking for the camera.) I finished all of the boning channels, but when I sat down to cut the boning, I ran out half-way through the corset. (Gives new meaning to the phrase "half-boned" stays.) After completely panicking for a few minutes, I calmed down a bit and Mom offered to go to Lacis today to see if they have the coiled spring steel there. If not, I don't think I'll have time to order more from Farthingales, so I'll have to get both corsets mostly finished then bring them with me to Lacis and purchase the precut boning in the correct lengths. (What a pain! I much prefer cutting the boning myself.) BTW, the corset really is looking fantastic. As soon as I find the camera (without getting distracted), I'll post a picture.
Hint on the corset: The pattern recommends using a contrasting color thread for stitching the boning channels. This is REALLY good advice. Not only does it save your eyes, but it looks pretty cute, too.
June 2, 2004
Both corsets are finished, but I can't really give a review of the pattern
since I didn't really follow it. The directions were more like guidelines
on this project. The sizing worked well, and all the pattern pieces
went together without a hitch. The problem that many people seem to
have with this pattern are the instructions for attaching the cover and lining.
Now, I really did at least read through the directions, and I can see why
people are complaining. It seems extremely complex with lots of room for error. Rather than
tempt fate, I chose to put the corsets together my own way...I started with the two interlining layers (after doing muslins to check fit!). I sewed each layer separately then attached them at the seams and added boning channels. (Warning: many people complain that this method produces puckers where the two layers do not match up exactly. While I do encounter this problem, I have not learned the alternative method so as to be in a position to compare, and the puckers have never been severe enough to cause any problems in the comfort or appearance of the final garment.) I then assembled the cover layer and attached it at the center back seams, right sides together and then flipped. (For my own corset, I also added an additional lining layer. This was attached at the same time as the cover fabric; the right sides of the lining and cover layers face each other, with the interlining layers facing the wrong side of either one.) I placed all the boning, carefully basted the top and bottom edges, and then attached seam binding. I was able to sew the seam binding to the top edge using the matching, but the entire bottom edge needed to be sewn by hand. (This is where it would really pay to get the Mantua Maker directions to work, as it would eliminate this step.) (I owe Mom a huge hug for doing all that hand sewing.) Oh, yeah, I also did not use the shoulder strap. I've had some problems with them in the past and figured I may as well save myself the time and fuss and eliminate them altogether.
The finished corsets are absolutely wonderful. The boys are all a bit perplexed that we are now making dresses to cover them up, and all I can say is that it's just a girl thing.
I've also finished my bumroll. I scaled up a pattern from Period Costumes for Stage and Screen. It was, of course, very simple, but a little oddly shaped once it was finished. The back just seems a bit too long before it curves. Maybe it's just me. Anyway, once it is on, you don't notice that at all.
The under petticoat is just about finished--just needs to be hemmed.
The over petticoat is just about half-way finished. I still haven't
decided how I will hem that one. It is going to show, so my inclination
is to hem by hand, but the flounce is about ten yards, and I really don't
have the kind of time at this point. So, I guess it gets a machine stitched
hem...at least for now.June 8, 2004
Well, the costume is pretty much finished, so I've got a lot of catching up to do.
The polonaise itself was actually my first attempt at scaling up a pattern
(aside from the bumroll--an experience that was falsely reassuring).
I got the pattern from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1, the 1770-1780 polonaise
from The Gallery of English Costume (seen on page 37). I was first attracted
by those beautiful pleats in back, and decided that they were worth the challenge.Since I'm not much of one for drawing, and I have ready access to both copiers that can make transparencies and overhead projectors, I decided to use that method. I ended up encountering two separate problems: the first was my old difficulties with measurements--if it is important, I will miscalculate;
the
second problem was with scale. Obviously, the original gown could not
be anywhere near my size, so by the time I had scaled the pattern up enough
to fit me around, it was way too
long. But that's okay--I learned a valuable lesson, and the next time
I try something like this, I will enlarge to fit height first, to get the
vertical scale right, and then enlarge that pattern by expanding where needed.
The result to the polonaise was that I had to go through several muslins before
it even approached being wearable, and even now I'm not entirely pleased with
the length of the center front. (You can see in the center picture at
the top of the page that when I sit, the edge of the bodice wants to flip
up=too long.)
My scale problem also resulted in some issues with the sleeve, but again,
human error also played its role. I knew just by looking at it that
the pattern was too big, so I shortened it significantly. Don't worry,
that was a good thing. The bad thing was that I didn't bother to make
a muslin first. Doh! What was I thinking? The finished sleeve
fits perfectly around my arm, but falls just short of my
elbow and slowly rides up while I'm wearing the garment. Fortunately,
I have enough leftover fabric to go back and recut the sleeves. (Since
I will need to remove the lining in order to do this, it also gives me an
excuse to go back and fix the length issue in front. I may also try
to fix some of the issues with the fit, if possible--you may be able to see
in my event photos that there is a little bit of creasing and such going on,
and the bodice does not seem to fit closely enough in places.)
The great tragedy, however, is that while at the event, I tore a hole in the right panel of the skirt. I was going up an outdoor staircase that had a beautiful wrought iron design on the railing. As I ascended, the wind caught my skirt, catching it on a metal grape leaf while I continued on. Fortunately, the tear is small and I think I can manage to repair it so that it is hardly visible at all. I like to think that it will add a bit of character to my polonaise--a bit of authentic distress. (Yeah, I just keep telling myself that. I really have managed not to be too disappointed and think positively about it. I guess it helps that I was a little dissatisfied with the costume to begin with.)
The one thing that I am extremely pleased with is the drape of the polonaise skirt. It is such a fun look, and my fabric has enough body to really pull it off well.
