Star Wars Episode II |
I must admit that I am extremely proud of these costumes. They
represent my first attempt at reproducing movie costumes and the
furthest I had ever deviated from commercial patterns. (I suppose
the next step is drafting my own patterns.)
The most important thing to me for
in making these costumes was finding the right fabric. In
all of the pictures I could find and in watching the movies I could
tell that the fabric is rather course. Fortunately, my local
fabric retail store had just started carrying Osnaburg in a natural
tone (same color as unbleached muslin but a much courser weave).
It was the perfect color and texture for the Jedi costumes. The
cloaks were a little more difficult. My mother ended up finding
this fabric at a store in Reno, Nevada. Unfortunately, it is a
polyester (I was thinking more along the lines of a lightweight wool),
but the color is absolutely perfect.
The pants I actually made from a very simple pants pattern that has an elastic waist. These took less than an hour each from laying out the pattern to finishing up the hem.
The tunic was a little more complicated. I ended up digging through my mothers old patterns and found a pattern from the '70's that I though would work well. I know that won't help anyone else, but I would assume that any pattern that has a kind of kimono or robe styling to it would work. I made two separate layers, lowering the neckline of the outer one (so that both layers would show) and making one without sleeves to reduce bulk. Neither tunic has any fastening since the belt holds everything together.
The next layer was the two tabards. I simply cut out four long rectangles (long enough to hang down below the belt both in front and behind) and sewed them together to form two long tubes. Once I had turned them and finished the unsewn edge, they were ready to go. A shorter third one of these tubes is used as a sash around the waist for under the belt.
The cloaks were also fairly strait forward. I used a pattern for a fleece jacket and lengthened all of the pieces so that the finished cloak would reach down to the ankle. I gave a little bit more fullness to the sleeves (enough so that each hand can be characteristically tucked into the opposite sleeve and still have plenty of room). Looking back, I also wish that I had made the hoods a bit fuller and a bit longer. (I think too that a wool fabric would have helped here; the polyester just has too much perk and doesn't quite drape the way the hoods do in the movies.)
I was
thrilled with how the belts turned out until my brothers
started hanging things from them and the straps started to
stretch.
There were two problems here, both of which I could have solved.
We
made the belts out of brown vinyl using a clasp and jean buttons
purchased
at the local fabric store. One of my brothers created the pattern
which simply consists of three strips of fabric, one of a larger width
than the other two. The larger one should be just a few inches
shorter than the
waist measurement and the narrow ones should be about four to five
inches longer (any excess length in these needs to be adjusted while
attaching the buckle). I folded over and stitched down the edges
of the larger strip and sewed a narrow strip to each end. Here is
were I made a mistake; I should have folded over and stitched the
narrow pieces just as I did with the wide piece. This would have
prevented some of the stretching you can see in the picture. I
place the jean buttons equidistant from the front center and then did a
fitting to adjust the placement of the buckle. The finished belt
wraps around the wearer with the narrow pieces wrapping back around to
the front and clasping in the center.
The light saber is my brother's creation, so I can't give
you any idea as to its construction except that it involves a piece of
pipe and
a bicycle grip.
The easiest part of this dress was the skirt, even without a pattern. Because my fashion fabric was so sheer, I lined it with a lavender polyester lining fabric that helped to bring out the design in my fashion fabric. I started out by sewing the two pieces of fabric together on the selvage. (I didn't cut gores or anything. There is only one seem in the skirt and that is in the back.) I also cut out a waistband and then pleated the sewn-together-selvege-edge of the skirt to the waistband. I wanted the skirt to be VERY full, so I used six yards of fabric and used rolled pleats at the waist to take it all in. The result was exactly what I had hoped for, although not entirely in keeping with the original costume. The original costume appears to be a gored circle skirt (or perhaps a little more than a full circle), which keeps the bulk out of the waist and still gives a very wide hemline.
The blouse probably took the most problem solving. I wanted a blouse that was separate from the corset, unlike the original costume. I ended up using a pattern from a Renaissance blouse that has an elastic neckline and raglan sleeves, but left the elastic out of the neckline and adjusted it to fit just off the shoulder. (I should insert a note here. In the pictures you may notice that my sleeves are two layered; I honestly thought that was how the original costume is. I know better now that I have seen better pictures, so please forgive me.) I made the capelet by holding a length of fabric with the selvage around my shoulders hand having my mother mark off where to cut it (I know that is very untechnical, but it made sense at the time and it guaranteed that the capelet would have the exact shape and drape that I wanted). I then sewed the capelet right in with the bias that finishes off the neckline of the blouse. For the crisscross sleeve ties I took several lengths of grosgrain ribbon (approximately three yards each), doubled them over so that I had two strands at half that length, and then sewed them into the sleeve seem just above the elbow. (One thing I discovered while waiting in line to get into the movie theater for six hours is that grosgrain does not stick to polyester even a little bit. My crisscross lacing was sliding down my arm all night. I went to my local fabric store and picked up some stuff that is supposed to be like the adhesive on the back of post-it notes. I haven't tried it out yet, but hopefully that will solve the problem.
The corset
probably poses the greatest challenge for the beginning costumer,
especially if you have never made a corset before. A few
tips before you begin: measure before you cut, do multiple fittings
before
you even go near your fashion fabric, work slowly and have
patience.
Now I worked from a modern Simplicity pattern, but if you have never
made
a corset before you would be better off purchasing an historically
accurate
pattern; the measurements for modern patterns are completely different
from
historical reproduction patterns. If you are determined to use a
modern
pattern (since they do cost quite a bit less) make one at least two
sizes
smaller than you usually make and plan on making some adjustments as
you
go along. (Two sizes is kind of arbitrary and depends on the
pattern
and your own body. Depending on the pattern, I can often go down
four
sizes because I'm so squishable.) Also keep in mind that if you
use
an historical pattern you will want to eliminate the front opening by
cutting
that piece on the fold (remember to eliminate the seam allowance
too!).
Another problem with modern patterns is that they are usually only two
layers, so your bone casings show on the outside of the final
garment. I did
not want any stitching to show on the outside of my final corset, so I
added
an interlining. The fashion fabric I used is a purple silk
dupioni
that I embroidered with roses. In order to save on costs, I used
duck
cloth for the lining and interlining rather than the traditional,
rather
costly, coutile. I fully boned the front of the corset using half
inch
wide electrical ties and then reinforced various stress points with
additional
boning of the same material. (One caveat that I found a bit
troubling
with the electrical ties is that they are thicker than regular spring
steel
boning and ended up showing through my fashion fabric a bit more than I
would
have liked.) The back of the corset laces up instead of having a
modern
zipper, and I added a modesty panel so that I can wear the corset
without
the blouse underneath sometimes.
Here are a few more pictures.
©2005 by Teresa Shobe. Unless otherwise
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