Not much to show here yet. While I have completed some undergarments,
a complete dress is yet to come. I'm hoping to work on one during
the summer of 2004.
Chemise: I used the Mantua Maker
pattern. The pattern covers a very wide time range. To see a
full discussion of the pattern, see the page for my 1830's dress.
Corset: I made this corset at a
workshop using the Mantua Maker pattern. While I've heard some complaints
about this pattern and it's directions, I actually found it to be fairly
easy. This was only the second corset I'd ever made, but the directions
were clear enough that I had the entire corset complete except for the binding
before I left the one-day workshop. Granted, I was at a workshop and
had some help, but I honestly feel that I could have done this on my own
just as easily (except for the fitting, of course). Because the corset
utilizes gussets, there may be some adjustments to make in the mock-up stage;
both the bust and the hip gussets must be adjusted to fit one's individual
shape. (I simply got lucky and had a really great fit on the first
try. I think it helped that I have a really tiny waist...compared
to my bust and hip measurements, that is, and my bust and hip measurements
match pretty well. I chose my size based on my bust measurements,
so the bust and hips fit perfectly, while the waist didn't matter so much
since this style of corset doesn't compress the waist.)
I've also heard people complain about the large lacing
gap that you end up with using this pattern. Personally, it doesn't
really bother me. I do know
that the pattern is designed that way, so it is not a flaw in the pattern,
though you may see it as a flaw in interpretation. According to the
pattern maker, a wide lacing gap is period. I'll avoid entering the
debate and just say that if you don't like a wide gap, add some fabric to
the center back pieces. (One thing to keep in mind about lacing is
that I have not yet figured out a way to lace this corset loosely.
If it is not laced tightly enough, the busk can't do its job and you end
up with the very un-period uni-boob. In order for this corset to "lift
and separate," you must lace it tightly enough for the busk to
be pulled toward your sternum, pushing your breasts away from each other
and into the space provided by the gussets.)
Now, for some of the problems I've had with the finished
corset. Sitting can be a bit of a challenge. This is a rather
long corset, especially on me, so when I sit down I'm wearing my you-know-whats
for earrings! There is also the problem of the busk and bones digging
into your legs; this can be solved by cutting them down some and stitching
them in place. In addition to all that, since the entire corset has
shifted up, the shoulder straps no longer fit and slip right off my arms.
I'm hoping that once I'm wearing a dress, the slippage will not really be
a problem; however, the straps do
need to be narrowed if you plan on wearing a dress with an open neckline.
(Many period portraits show a neckline that barely rests on the edge of
the shoulder. The only way to achieve that look with this corset is
to get rid of the straps.) As it is, I can't wear this corset to a
casual event (like a picnic). I'm going to try maybe cutting it down
a bit in the length and cutting the boning down so that it ends just a bit
below the waist. I'm also considering getting rid of the shoulder straps
entirely; they definitely are not
needed to keep the corset on, so their original function must have been
to help with posture, forcing the wearer's shoulders to slope downward.
If these modifications aren't sufficient to make the corset more comfortable,
I'll have to resort to La Mode Bagatelle's bodiced petticoat.
Fixing the problems made a huge difference with this corset. I shortened the bottom by about an inch and a half, eliminating the ride-up problem and the bones digging into my thigh problem. Losing weight also helped with the shoulder straps digging into my arms (which I hadn't mentioned before); the lesson here is to make sure you are making the right size, since on this one it affects more than just the lacing gap. Finally, wearing a dress overtop the corset really does help the shoulder straps stay in place, though if I made this one again, I'd make the straps a bit narrower.
Petticoat: Since I now like the corset so well, I decided to use La Mode Bagatelle's bodiced petticoat pattern to make an unboned petticoat. Essentially, I needed something to cover the corset since I had bound the edges in light blue, which would show through my white dress. I made the bodice part out of muslin and the skirt out of batiste. If I make it again, I'll probably make the entire thing out of batiste or voile; I thought the bodice would need a bit more stability than the skirt, but it really doesn't and the muslin just ends up detracting from the overall look, which would otherwise be very pretty. I think next time I'll make one out of a light blue to give a hint of color under my white regency dress. Wouldn't that be cute?