Romantic Era


Here is an outfit that I am currently working on for this year's Dickens's Fair.  The inspiration came during Costume College after seeing the new Truly Victorian pattern for an 1830s gown.  (I had already decided that I couldn't possibly do the typical hoopskirt ensemble; the fair simply gets too crowded to walk around all day in one of those.  So, I was pretty much limiting myself to the 30s or 40s.  Of course, I have nothing against the 40s and actually purchased a very cute 40s bonnet that I will eventually make a dress for.)

The first thing I had to do was come up with a chemise that would work with this type of neckline.  I ended up finishing a chemise that I originally intended for the Regency, using a chemise pattern from Mantua Maker.  The chemise will actually end up working for several different time periods because I'm really not that picky about authenticity.  This pattern was actually a little complicated for me, and for a while I completely scrapped the project; apparently, I hadn't read the pattern markings correctly and placed the underarm gusset too far down the side seam. But once I set to it again, it actually turned out just fine.  (One of the things I love about Mantua Maker patterns is that they go into great detail as to how to put the garment together authentically, including instructions on the different hand stitching techniques that can be used.)  Further information about my chemise can be found on my Regency page, since that is what the chemise was originally intended for.

The next garment I worked on was the corset.  I used the Past Patterns sensible stays pattern view B, but made some drastic changes.  The first thing to note about this pattern is that it does run a bit large for a corset; according to their measurements, none of the sizes in the package were supposed to fit me.  I went ahead and made it up in the largest size, which turned out to be a little too large.  (Fortunately, I decided to cord the entire corset, which took up some of the extra fabric so that the final corset fits perfectly.)  Another thing is that the pattern is also a bit long, with no place marked where you can shorten it; the back measurement given on the package was two inches too long for me, so I just arbitrarily chose a place on each piece to shorten (somewhere slightly above the waist), making sure that the spot lined up on each piece--the corset is still a bit long.  The first actual change I made to the pattern directions was to make the corset two layers of fabric instead of one because I wanted to be able to put cording in at least at every seam and possibly throughout the corset.  This meant that I could eliminate the pattern piece for the back facing.  I sewed the seams for both layers and then attached the two layers to each other at the back edges on my sewing machine.  I then hand sewed boning channels at the back edges.  (I should explain a little here; the pattern describes these stays as sensible, saying that the original corsets had no boning--only a limited amount of cording.  This may have worked for some women, but definitely not women of my shape and size!  In order to make this stay more sensible for me, I added spiral bones to the back edges to support the lacing (I hate the bunched up look produced by a lack of boning) and added a busk pocket to the center front.)  Once my boning channels and busk pocket were in place, I hand stitched eyelets for the lacing using directions from a Mantua Maker pattern.  I then proceeded to add rows of cording, starting at the seams and working my way out, still hand stitching and occasionally checking the fit to make sure that the corset did not become too  small with all the many rows of cording.  (Hint: to save money I used 1/8th inch hemp twine that I purchased at a home improvement store.  It was much less expensive than buying the equivalent cotton cording at the fabric store.)  As it turned out, I was able to cord the entire corset.  I tried it on a couple of times before finishing, and was happy to discover that the cording really does make a difference in helping the fabric lay flat.  Once all of the cording was done, I attached the shoulder straps, checked the fit, and then sewed seam binding to all of the unfinished edges.  The finished garment is obviously not as supportive as a boned corset, but it is also not as restrictive and still gives the correct silhouette for the 1830s.

The next step was to make a corded petticoat/crinoline to give body to the skirt.  I used the directions found on Demode for this petticoat; the directions are incredibly well researched and very helpful and easy to follow.  My own version has five layers attached to a yoke; the undermost layer is the corded petticoat with over 30 rows of cording.  After that there is a petticoat with one flounce, then one with two flounces, and a third with three flounces.  The outermost skirt just has a decorative lace trim at the hem; I may end up putting a tuck in this layer because I think it is just a tad too long.  Note: I wouldn't really do this many flounced petticoats without a pleater foot for my sewing machine; it is a great investment if you plan on doing a lot of pleating/gathering.  Originally, I wasn't planning on making a bum pad (seeing as I have plenty of padding in that area naturally) but now that I see the petticoat on my dressform, I'm thinking that I may want the pad to help keep the fullness of the skirts in the back and to help the corded petticoat keep its shape.

For the dress, I used Truly Victorian pattern 455, with the gigot sleeve option.  I actually found the fabric at Joann during a sale; it is a brown calico that has wide stripes that alternate between a pokadot pattern and a paisley pattern.  (This pattern can still be found amoung their quilting calicos in various colors.)  The pattern was very easy to work with; in fact, the dress was the simplest part of this costume.  (BTW, Truly Victorian patterns have some of the most comprehensive fitting directions I have ever seen on any patterns.  Fitting these types of dresses, though, still takes patience and experience AND a fitting buddy or really acurate dressform--you cannot fit them properly on your own.)  The only problem I ran into with this pattern was when I went to attach the sleeve head to the armscye.  The pattern states that lightweight fabric may be gathered to the amscye, but that heavier fabric may need to be pleated.  The fabric I used was lightweight, as was the lining, but after running a gathering stitch, I found it impossible to gather the sleeve enough to fit the armscye.  I ran into the same problem when fitting the sleeve crinoline to its band. I found the sleeve crinoline necessary since my fabric was very lightweight and would not hold the puff on its own.  I constructed them as described in the directions, as completely independent accessoriens, and then slipstitched the top band to the inside of the armscye.  I chose to pleat the skirt, leaving the front few inches flat, as in period fashion plates, and the pleats angled toward the back of the dress.  Since I had my corded petticoat to wear, I didn't need to stiffen the hem at all, but I would recommend this step if you are wearing only one or two petticoats.  (You'll notice in the picture that my petticoat is showing at the hem a bit.  I haven't figured out yet is this is because my hem is not straight on the dress or on the petticoat.)

The final touch was my bonnet.  I purchased the bonnet several years ago on a trip to Columbia, CA.  It is just a standard felt poke bonnet that is available in many places.  I added the flowers myself, removing the blooms and leaves from some flowers I bought at Joann and sewing them onto the bonnet with a millinery needle.  I'd still like to add some lace to the inside of the brim before I wear it again.

To see my most current projects, check out my costume weblog.


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