The Good Dress

10/24/05

It's not often that I get the chance to make a costume for someone else. The few sewing adventures I've let myself go on have all been modern clothes for people who were either close friends or who wanted to pay me almost nothing for a lot of work that they expected to be absolutely perfect. (Unfortunately, in one case the two clientele coincided, and I ended up with a family friend that was mad at me.) So, I've formally sworn off sewing for profit, especially since there is very little profit in it.

I have not, however, forsworn making clothing and costumes for people I really like, especially when that person has a wonderful, laid back disposition, and is thrilled with the idea of me sewing something for her. Not only am I excited about sewing something for someone who will really appreciate it, but I am also delighted with the chance to practice sewing for and fitting someone other than myself. Overall, I expect this to be a good experience. :)

First, the fabric. I found the fabulous fabric at the local chain fabric store (no, I can't bring myself to type the name anymore). I doubt that it is very period, but I absolutely love the design and the color, and thought immediately of this dress when I saw it. It was one of those situations where it's a dress and fabric that I'd love to have myself, but the next best thing will be to make it for a friend.

Now, I'll need to build this one from the ground up. My friend hasn't done any costuming in the past and will need a chemise, drawers, a corset and petticoats in addition to the dress. For the chemise I'd like to make Past Patterns 708; one of the views has a narrow sleeve which will be necessary for the dress I'm making. The drawers will be made from the Laughing Moon pattern, which my mom has made before and really likes. I'm going to experiment with one of the Simplicity corsets for my friend, since I want a fairly light support corset--she really doesn't need much, but I still want a good base for the bodice. I don't really need a pattern for the petticoats; I just want to make sure that she has a corded petticoat and then at least one flounced. The dress itself is Simplicity 4551, view C. (Don't worry. I actually gave my friend other options, but she agreed with my choice.)

So, at this point, I've only just gotten her measurements so that I can start on the undergarments. I'm probably going to finish my own dress first, and then work on some of the undergarments simultaneously. (I also need petticoats and drawers. If it looks like I'm going to have plenty of time, I may also make myself a new chemise.)

12/14/05

Okay, I kind of ran out of time on this one, so I'll just have to give a bit of a wrap up...sorry.

I guess I should start out by admitting that I took a perfectly decent period pattern and corrupted it for expediency. My humblest apologies to Martha McCain, but period techniques aren't achieved in a day, and that's just about all I had by the time I got around to making this dress. So, rather than actually reviewing the pattern, I think all I can do is point out what shortcuts work, and which do not. Unfortunately, I ran into more on the negative side, which is why I really need to quit this last minute thing!

My subject was a little wary of corseting, so I agreed to let her go without. (Don't worry. She enjoyed herself so much at the fair that I'm sure she will come around eventually.) In order to allow her to wear modern undergarments, I opted to make the gathered bodice. I eliminated the fitted lining, which was my first no-no. I really do know better than that, but by the time the realization struck me, it was too late. I was trying to save time and, in a momentary lapse, figured it didn't matter. Of course, the experienced seamstress will know that the result was a plethora of difficulties, including a front closure that refuses to stay closed and a skirt that pulls the bodice down too far where a fitted lining would have held things in place.

I must insert here that the sleeves are to die for. I made the sleeves from view C and they are absolutely adorable--the one saving grace of my workmanship on this dress.

Now, on to the skirt. It's cartridge pleated, which I usually love, but to speed things up I used my old gingham trick. I'm sticking to my guns on this decision--it should have worked out perfectly. The pattern itself has you fold the top edge of the skirt over and marking all your pleats, something I just didn't have time for. The problem I ran into (entirely unexpected I might add) was that once I had the bulk of the gingham/skirt seam involved in the pleating, I couldn't pleat the entire five panels to the waistband. Mom came to the rescue on this one and shortened the last panel to fit because I was ready to simply give up, it being the night before the fair.

My next shortcut with the skirt was to attach it to the same waistband as the bodice. Again, I think this would have worked much better if I had lined the bodice. The pattern has the two made up separately so that you skirt closure can be offset from the bodice closure. It's a very period approach but, again, very difficult to do with my time constraints. I added a placket to the skirt opening and just put it in front with the bodice opening. That part worked fine. The only problem was with the skirt pulling the gathered bodice down too low. I tried to make the waistband tight enough to keep everything in place, but I just couldn't handle the weight of the skirt, I guess. The fitted lining really would have helped pull everything together and keep it in place.

At any rate, we managed to finish the dress on time and the young woman who wore it loved it and truly enjoyed her fair experience.

8/14/06

I am determined to modify this dress and make it work, especially since the wearer enjoyed her experience so much that she wants to go back. Unfortunately, I won't have time to do that this year, but hope to finish the alterations so that she can wear the dress again in 2007. My intention is to remove the skirt, take apart the bodice, and then resew the bodice so that it has a fitted foundation. I may also sew some gathers into the shoulder, as that seems to be a bit too large on her and will compliment the gathers at the waist. Finally, I think I'd like to add some sort of belt as well as a few more petticoats to really get that skirt fluffed.

Then, since I'm currently planning on wearing my gray bonnet that year, I'll also need to make her a bonnet of her own. I'm currently in the middle of making a spoon bonnet in a tan velveteen that I think would go nicely with this dress.