Books 'n' Threads

Brown Evening Bodice

Costume Page

 

4/12/05

I've decided to add an evening bodice to my brown naturalform ensemble. At this point, I really haven't decided a whole lot, which is bad since I really need this to be finished by the time I go to Utah for Costume Con. I do know that I want to use the same flocked twill that I used for the skirt, but I'd also like to incorporate some of the brown duchess silk satin that I have leftover from the parasol (which also needs to be finished for CC23). There isn't much of the silk left, so I really have to play around with it to see which pieces can be made from the silk and which will need to be made out of the twill.

I'm thinking of using Truly Victorian pattern TV 422 and extending the front dart to the neckline in order to make front and side front pieces. I could then use the silk for the side front and side back section with the twill for the front and back sections. Ooo, oo, then I could bead the front section...but only if I actually get started on it soon. I'd better get it in gear. And I guess I'd better take the rest of my rambling over to my blog. I'll post more progress here when the is actually something to report.

 

4/21/05

My two-mock-up luck seems to be holding. The first one is always just a tad off, and the second is always right on--or at least right enough to proceed. This time, the second mock-up was a little snug, but considering the fact that I've lost ten pounds in the past two and half weeks, it might be a good thing.

So, a couple nights ago, I cut out my fashion fabric and started contemplating the beading for the center front panels. After about an hour of just mulling things over and accomplishing nothing, I finally decided to skip the beading. I'm really not going to have time and just want to get this finished.

Tonight I'm going to get the interlining fabric cut out and will start the assembly process. I've decided not to do a bag lining this time. It seems like there are many seamstresses who skip this as well, and the stupid thing always gives me grief. Instead, I'll go ahead and finish inside seams with the serger and face the neck and hem edges with seam binding. I'll leave all the trimming to the last, since I can always do that stuff on the trip.

 

4/26/05

So far so good. The bodice is completely assembled, with just a little bit of finishing left to do. My only issue with the pattern has been the sleeve, but I almost always have problems with sleeves. The problem is that if I use the sleeve pattern as is, the head of the sleeve must be extremely gathered to fit the armscye--not just eased as stated in the pattern directions. While some of this may be accounted for in the TV patterns by the fact that you must choose different sized pieces for front, back, and sleeve, it cannot account for all of that extra material. Often, it's not that big a deal, especially when the sleeve head is supposed to be full, but when the style is dropped off the shoulder a bit and should fit rather snuggly, gathering at the sleeve head can look ridiculous. Fortunately, this has happened often enough that I've figured out how to deal with it, simply take in the sleeve head, lowering the curve, until it fits into the space provided with a reasonable amount of easing. I just don't know why this always happens to me--do I have oddly shaped shoulders or something?

At any rate, everything else was a snap, including the bias seam binding around all the unfinished edges. (I'm so glad I decided not to do the bag lining. I always struggle with it, it ends up taking a ton of time, and it never looks good. Plus, it's just one more layer to add to the bulk without actually being a stabilizing force.) I still haven't added the boning; I have to go buy that today and will sew it in tonight. After that, I think I'm done. Just in time to pack it up for CC23! Yippee!

 

5/3/05

The finished bodice is absolutely stunning. I love it! One thing worth adding though...

I wasn't able to find spiral boning in long enough lengths for the back. I placed what I had lower on the bodice so that it extended down into the tail, since I was concerned that the tail might not lay flat. The drawback was that the back didn't lay flat just behind the armscyes. This could have been solved if I had known earlier and had ordered boning to the correct lengths.

 

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