I started working on a Victorian wrapper way back in November hoping to wear it to Dickens Fair. It didn’t happen so the project has languished a bit. Once I finally got it assembled enough to put on my dressform, I discovered that it did not fit over my regular hoop.
Sure, I could technically make it work if I wore the front of the skirt open with a decorative petticoat underneath, but the side seams were still going to be pulled toward the back and not lay properly.
My only remaining options were to wear it without a hoop, possibly with my corded petticoat, or make a new, smaller hoop. I knew Laughing Moon Patterns has a pattern for a small hoop, and I also had an old Simplicity pattern that offered a small hoop option. After some Google image searching and a sale at Renaissance Fabrics, I decided to go with the Laughing Moon pattern.
The pattern was pretty simple and straight-forward, though the instructions are a bit brief for the construction. (They are wonderfully complete when it comes to suggestions on how to alter the patterns and the details on how to select and finish/connect hoop wire/steel.) I traced out and shortened my pattern one evening, and then spent about 4-5 hours the next day constructing the garment.
I ended up with a bit of puckering between the top three bones on the side seams. I suspect this happened because I opted to finish the seams by making them flat felled. While this helped with inserting the hoop steel into the channels, it made it rather difficult to keep the proper curve in that side seam. Ultimately, I don’t think it will matter once there is a petticoat and skirt over top of it.